Missing Build Docs / Schematics

No problem! Good luck! Hope it sounds great. I’m getting anxious and excited waiting for my Tayda order to arrive so I can build my Fordoble drive, and a pot & kettle. Waiting is the hardest part!!lol
I think I have everything, minus the two 1N747a's.
I bout screwed the pooch on the two Germanium diodes. I ordered Red Band Soviet Diodes on the recommendation of another poster, and just happened to watch a video last night explaining Soviet diode bands are usually ANODE instead of Cathode... Glad I saw that before I installed them
 
Just got my Curds & Whey in the mail :p

Any BOM, Build doc, or drill templates yet?
Does the PCB have the values printed on it? If so, there's your BoM. This PCB is in the "maybe" pile for me, so I'd like to see a BoM before I commit to it.
 
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Does the PCB should have the values printed on it? If so, there's your BoM. This PCB is in the "maybe" pile for me, so I'd like to see a BoM before I commit to it.
EffectsLayouts and FuzzDog both have P&C boards and build docs that are probably a safe bet to base a parts order on
 
EffectsLayouts and FuzzDog both have P&C boards and build docs that are probably a safe bet to base a parts order on
I did do a search for P&C schematics and confirmed that there's nothing exotic in it, that's all I really needed to know. My other concern is that it's probably not going to fit a Tayda pre-drilled box, so I'll wait till there's a template and see how I feel about it.
 
I did do a search for P&C schematics and confirmed that there's nothing exotic in it, that's all I really needed to know. My other concern is that it's probably not going to fit a Tayda pre-drilled box, so I'll wait till there's a template and see how I feel about it.
Oh, yeah, looks like it’s three across the top row and two on the bottom, no real way to retrofit that config on a pre-drilled enclosure.
 
I think I have everything, minus the two 1N747a's.
I bout screwed the pooch on the two Germanium diodes. I ordered Red Band Soviet Diodes on the recommendation of another poster, and just happened to watch a video last night explaining Soviet diode bands are usually ANODE instead of Cathode... Glad I saw that before I installed them
Oh man! Yeah, I’ve gone thru that too. Although, I usually docket all my clipping diodes, so I just had to reverse them.lol A cheap, lil components tester off of the Bay of E can help out a lot with stuff like that. The only thing those testers have given me trouble with are jfets. For some reason they have a hard time knowing what they are.
 
I did do a search for P&C schematics and confirmed that there's nothing exotic in it, that's all I really needed to know. My other concern is that it's probably not going to fit a Tayda pre-drilled box, so I'll wait till there's a template and see how I feel about it.
I may tinker with coming up with own template, cause I'd really like to build it now. But I may have to wait until @Robert posts a drill template
 
I may tinker with coming up with own template, cause I'd really like to build it now. But I may have to wait until @Robert posts a drill template
On first glance it looks like a 6-knob layout with the bottom-middle pot missing (and the switch holes will be smaller diameter, but I usually drill switch holes out to 7mm in case I need wiggle room), that’s what I designed my decal around anyway.
 
Oh man! Yeah, I’ve gone thru that too. Although, I usually docket all my clipping diodes, so I just had to reverse them.lol A cheap, lil components tester off of the Bay of E can help out a lot with stuff like that. The only thing those testers have given me trouble with are jfets. For some reason they have a hard time knowing what they are.
Oh yeah dude, already got myself one... the little clear acrylic box tester you have to assemble for some reason?
That thing showed me the way on those diodes after I saw that video on the anode/Cathode being opposed
 
Do you have a schematic for UwotM8? I'm getting an oscillation if I turn the gain up just a little bit.
 
@Robert Not sure if this had been mentioned yet but I just got a new unicab in the mail from ya today and the pcb looks EXTREMELY different from the build doc. I’m just gonna go off the silkscreening.
 
I remember hearing that the Zap Machine uses transistors that are out of production, which was the reason it was such a limited run. Is there a BOM, what's the Q3 transistor or equivalent for the Double Tap?
 
Is the schematic from the Sergeant Fuzz available?...
Seconded. Looking forward to building this when the doc is available with the component values (and schematic)

I had no problem completing the Thunder Chicken PCB without a doc because the component values are on the board silkscreen -- sweet! The Sergeant has traditional component identifiers (R1, C1, Q1, etc.) so no clue as to the values.
 
Seconded. Looking forward to building this when the doc is available with the component values (and schematic)

I had no problem completing the Thunder Chicken PCB without a doc because the component values are on the board silkscreen -- sweet! The Sergeant has traditional component identifiers (R1, C1, Q1, etc.) so no clue as to the values.

The actual PCB is labeled. I built mine a mo their two ago. It is excellent. I made the bias external…
 
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