Robert
Reverse Engineer
Hex standoffs. You can either mount it to the enclosure with screws, or if you'd prefer a flush exterior with no mounting hardware you can float it between two sets like this:
(Different PCB, same concept)
4 Tap DC Converter/Isolator Mockup Pedal - Arriving Soon!
- Thread starter music6000
- Start date
Hex standoffs. You can either mount it to the enclosure with screws, or if you'd prefer a flush exterior with no mounting hardware you can float it between two sets like this:
(Different PCB, same concept)
giovanni
Well-known member
that’s gonna be tricky to drill correctly isn’t it?
Robert
Reverse Engineer
The USB and Isolator projects aren't too bad because if you do botch the drilling you can accommodate by adjusting the depth of the hardware or add washers. Worse case scenario you could use long screws with nuts to set the height of the PCB to virtually any depth needed.
The DC jacks sit inside the enclosure so the PCB "floats".
The Current Meter is more critical since the DC jack is flush mounted with the exterior of the enclosure.... but since that one requires a rectangular cutout for the display anyway I would recommend using Tayda's drill service (along with a tested and verified template) rather than trying to do it by hand. I'm considering offering that one as a complete kit with everything required to build it, including a pre-milled enclosure.
owlexifry
Well-known member
these links are for 12V output ?
assuming i could use one of these - wouldn’t mind having a 12V option to go with the 9V outputs. (so i can run a CE-2 @ 12V)
i also noticed this query about possibly using ITR0305S09 for up to 333ma (9V), as opposed to IEB0105S09 (up to 111ma, 9V)
assuming the L7805CV 1.5A regulator would handle all of that just fine?
(333x4 = 1332 ma)
Robert
Reverse Engineer
Yep. I was working on the regulated output version at that time. I should remove (or update) that post to prevent any confusion.
I dropped the regulators in the first version to lower the idle current consumption, but will probably bring them back for more stable voltage outputs. LDOs might not be a bad choice in that case.
Yes, you can mix and match the output voltages of the converters (or voltage regulators in the regulated version) if you want.
owlexifry
Well-known member
oh.
without the regulators, is the first version gonna have issues? or is it just not bang on 9V and wanders a bit with different loads?
(just curious cos i have first version)
Hirti
Well-known member
zeropluszero
Active member
Any chance PedalPCB is planning to stock those DC/DC converters for the USB Pedal Power board? Theyre not at Tayda, and I dont really want to have to make a single order from Mouser for one part - I'm in Australia as well so would rather buy from PPCB once - order some other stuff I want and not have to make orders with different companies.
owlexifry
Well-known member
i’m from australia too.
i recommend just get em from mouser or digikey.
mouser does free shipping for a minimum $60 order and i think digikey is $50 min.
what you’re complaining about is something that all of us have to deal with.
there are some ways to minimize costs if you’re sensible, but sometimes you just have to take a hit if you want to build a circuit bad enough. that’s just how it is.
might as well order yourself some other bits on mouser while you’re there for anything else you might need like genuine ICs and transistors, voltage regulators, capacitors whatever you think you might need for any future projects. it’s not too bad really.
DeadAirMD
Well-known member
If you got into pedal building to save money, you picked the wrong hobby. Like the vast majority of us, I got into this because I like doing things myself, being able to put my own creative spin on something, and mod circuits to fit my tone/genre.
When I place an order on PPCB, I also place an order at a minimum of 2 other sites (Mouser/SBP). And I already have boxes full of ICs, components, enclosures, etc.
When I place an order on PPCB, I also place an order at a minimum of 2 other sites (Mouser/SBP). And I already have boxes full of ICs, components, enclosures, etc.
zeropluszero
Active member
Fair enough. I'm reasonably new to this, I guess I was hoping that maybe there was another source for something like this IC, but if that's not the case then so be it, and I'll order from digikey/mouser.
I got into it to save money AND because I like building things haha.
I got into it to save money AND because I like building things haha.
Smrtokvitek
Well-known member
@Robert have you tried to put an LC filter on the input or output as the datasheets or Jack Orman suggest and do you think there is any (real) benefit? Have you measured the ripple of the converters you use? I guess there is no audible noise but I am still curious about it.
bluedmc777
Active member
I’m in the same boat. I need 4 400-500ma supplies with being 12v for the Madbean Archibald. It doesn’t have to be 12v but seem to sound better to my ears. I’ve been looking at power supplies all week. Cheapest option seemed the voodoo labs digital which has 4 500ma outputs I believe.
I’m little confused as to what these are exactly. https://www.joyoaudio.com/product/95.html
Robert
Reverse Engineer
Let me check, I think I have one of those cracked open here somewhere.
bluedmc777
Active member
bluedmc777
Active member
You want me to open mine up and post some pics?
Robert
Reverse Engineer
It seems like it's one of those snap together (or possibly even glued) assemblies that you basically have to destroy to open up.
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