drgonzo1969
Well-known member
Nice! That’s good to hear! I will still build both.
Aion PCB's
- Thread starter music6000
- Start date
I use to fast forward when Duane appeared!The real little prick was the shop manager.
Well, I guess him and Boyd are equally egregious, but...
American Hot Rod star becomes poster boy for dangers of drink driving
Duane Mayer, who now runs his own American Hot Rod shop, had to be rushed to hospital on New Year's Day with injuries to his face and head after the incident in Weir Canyon in Anaheim, California.www.dailymail.co.uk
So drunk he fell out of his COUPE at 25mph. Not even a roadster...
Drunk driving...
Harry Klippton
Well-known member
It rhymes with Frigtar JFC Zania
JFC = Metal
Fizz
Well-known member
Is that a decal on top? Looks cool!
Yes, I use A4 Clear Adhesive Sheets with White backing paper in an Inkjet Printer.
I cut them with Docking Shears & trim the corners by hand.
I locate them on the pedal with 20mm low tack masking paper tape & then I put a strip down the longest side to form a hinge.
I fold it off the pedal face and peel the backing paper off then slowly fold it back in place using my finger to slide back & forth so no wrinkles appear as I lay it down.
Then I use the shiny backing paper I removed to slide back & forth over the whole graphic with a firm hand till it is firmly seated.
I seal it with a light coat of matte varnish from a spray can & wait for that to dry (aprox 15 minutes in a warm area)
I then Apply 2 coats of Clear Acrylic Automotive Paint.
Fizz
Well-known member
Awesome! Thanks! You would happen to have a link to that paper would you?
I buy from Ebay in Australia & at the moment they are out of stock, Sold over 4000 packs!
It comes with No labelling on it in Plastic Sleeve, you get 10 A4 sheets at $1.10 Au per sheet.
It arrives in a protective Cardboard type envelope.
You can get 6 - 125b graphics per sheet.
SillyOctpuss
Well-known member
Just Google self adhesive inkjet photo paper and you'll find loads to choose from. You can get clear of with a white backing, you can even get gold and silver versions.
darwin999
Well-known member
I agree TOTALLY w/ benny_profane. Furthermore, Aion's docs also allow - and frequently suggest - interesting options/changes/modifications, which is an important reason why having the values printed on the PCB isn't always optimal. I love Aion boards, his docs are superb, and Kevin is always very friendly and helpful in communications.
I also have build many PPCB boards, and like them, too. But the issue with missing schematics/documentation is a continuing hassle - e.g., the "additional steps" that benny_profane mentions in his comments above when it comes to tweaking, modifications, and troubleshooting. At the very least, I truly would like each and every PPCB board to have a schematic + parts list available and posted when the PCB is released. (I have 3 PPCB's for which I still do not have a schematic.)
And hence, this particular chain of comments actually surprises me. Tweaking and modifying seems to be such a major guiding principle of this PPCB forum, a spirit which I share. So to my eyes, all the comments here wanting no docs and a "paint by numbers" PCB actually seems rather contradictory to that.
My 2 cents.
Not sure who the unmentionable one is, but I do like the fact we have different vendors tackling different projects. PedalPCB may not have a Boss OD3 or DS1 board, but Aion doesn’t have Some of the cool boards like the Sproing etc either. You also can’t get off the shelf predrilled enclosures from Tayda for the Aion boards, which you can for a number of PedalPCB
I will say, I do prefer the more refined multi lager boards that are set up for board mounted pots like pedalPcb and Aion over ones that require flying leads to everything!
All said and done I have done a number of pedalpcb boards and yet to do an Aion board, so I can’t say anything about their quality, but I’ve been mostly happy with PedalPCB
Robusto
Active member
I'm a complete novice at PCB design, but I wonder, wouldn't it make more sense to lay out a PCB with the parts that are close to each other on the schematic to be close to each other on the PCB rather than lining them all up to look symmetrical? Honest question. Maybe Pedal PCB boards take both into consideration. I've never studied one close enough to know.
Related question: Does anyone know which PCB manufacturer AION uses?
cdwillis
Well-known member
You want to keep the traces as short as possible generally, but in a guitar pedal it's not really that critical usually. You have to balance easy to route with easy to build and since the you can get away with moving parts where needed it's a no brainer to make it easier to build.
Robert
Reverse Engineer
You should always prioritize signal flow over cosmetics....
Do I? Obviously no, not always, but I also don't (usually) just throw things down randomly so they are symmetrical.
There are some exceptions, and definitely some ugly ducklings, but I usually group components into functional blocks first. Next I try to position those blocks logically. The symmetrical layout comes afterwards. Sometimes I fill in the gaps with dummy silkscreen "components" to give the symmetrical appearance when it's just technically not reasonable.
You can't always follow the schematic tightly because of physical constraints and control layouts, and there are always going to be a few traces that are longer than others. For example, when you're laying out a TMB tone stack and the Treble/Bass controls are on opposite sides of the pedal sometimes you have no choice but to run traces across the board.
You have to look at the schematic and determine which traces will make the long runs based on signal strength, gain, impedance, and proximity to noise sources like LFOs and charge pumps.
Following the schematic is fairly easy. Throwing components down randomly so they look pretty is even easier.
The tricky part is finding a balance of the two.
Do I? Obviously no, not always, but I also don't (usually) just throw things down randomly so they are symmetrical.
There are some exceptions, and definitely some ugly ducklings, but I usually group components into functional blocks first. Next I try to position those blocks logically. The symmetrical layout comes afterwards. Sometimes I fill in the gaps with dummy silkscreen "components" to give the symmetrical appearance when it's just technically not reasonable.
You can't always follow the schematic tightly because of physical constraints and control layouts, and there are always going to be a few traces that are longer than others. For example, when you're laying out a TMB tone stack and the Treble/Bass controls are on opposite sides of the pedal sometimes you have no choice but to run traces across the board.
You have to look at the schematic and determine which traces will make the long runs based on signal strength, gain, impedance, and proximity to noise sources like LFOs and charge pumps.
Following the schematic is fairly easy. Throwing components down randomly so they look pretty is even easier.
The tricky part is finding a balance of the two.
jesuscrisp
Well-known member
Symmetrical layouts have better feng shui, improving the signal flow spiritually as opposed to physically.
Aentons
Well-known member
I can't recall where I got the notion from but I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that having lots of parts lined up in parallel was not ideal because of electric fields and whatnot and that's why when you look in a commercial pedal like Boss it's all fairly randomly organized in there.
Just a thought- companies like Boss etc are building to a price point, so the less time they spend getting a working board that fits in their enclosure, the better off they are. Making it look pretty is likely not very high on their list of priorities.
