Harry Klippton
Well-known member
Now I use a silicone heat mat and just press the PCB into it when I'm soldering
Blu Tack vs Blue Painters Tape
- Thread starter Coach_McGuirk
- Start date
Alan W
Well-known member
Geez. When I put through hole parts in, I use small pliers to pull them down all the way (or with larger resistors I’ll have a removable spacer under the resistor), then I pull the leads out to 45 degrees. Since I’m on the anal end of the spectrum, I go around and just solder one lead at a time (also good in terms of keeping component heat down), flip the board over and make any azimuth adjustments necessary to meet my geometric urges, and then solder the second leads.
I also tend to trim the leads to ~1/4 inch after I’ve pulled them out at the angle, so as to keep access better and to shorten the soldering time.
For tiny parts, or parts with very short leads, I use my slide lock tweezers.
I also tend to trim the leads to ~1/4 inch after I’ve pulled them out at the angle, so as to keep access better and to shorten the soldering time.
For tiny parts, or parts with very short leads, I use my slide lock tweezers.
I bend the legs of resistors and caps.
Sockets and anything that has more that 2 leads, I tack 1 lead quickly with my iron, position it while applying just enough heat, then solder everything without forgetting to go back at that first lead.
Togglesand pots, I install them in the drilled enclosure.
Sockets and anything that has more that 2 leads, I tack 1 lead quickly with my iron, position it while applying just enough heat, then solder everything without forgetting to go back at that first lead.
Togglesand pots, I install them in the drilled enclosure.
chris.knudson
Well-known member
Joben Magooch
Well-known member
Pretty much the only thing I ever use blue tack for anymore is when a circuit has just one or two random tall caps that make it sit awkwardly to solder.
Even then what I’ll typically end up doing is not messing with any tack or tape and will just do a tiny “tack solder” to hold the component in place then kinda flip it over and hold it with my thumb/finger to put the rest of the solder in.
Even then what I’ll typically end up doing is not messing with any tack or tape and will just do a tiny “tack solder” to hold the component in place then kinda flip it over and hold it with my thumb/finger to put the rest of the solder in.
giovanni
Well-known member
Phrasing?
DeadAirMD
Well-known member
Over their head, if you're looking for more precise directions.
Coach_McGuirk
Member
I've joined camp no-bend. I'd rather the components look kind of whack and still be able to remove them more easily. Maybe I was bending the leads too much before, but I do think that painters tape, at least, can keep most things flush most of the time.
andare
Well-known member
Blob of blue tack ( I can only find craft paste here, it's white and not too sticky) o the bench.
For components that don't move like resistors and diodes I press one edge of the PCB onto it, the other edge sits on the bench. Just enough so it doesn't move around.
I Put masking tape over sockets and then press it onto the Bleu tack
caps I hold in place with tape and use third hands to keep the board off the bench. I solder one leg, reposition the caps and solder the other leg. If i care about straight caps. Otherwise both legs at once
For components that don't move like resistors and diodes I press one edge of the PCB onto it, the other edge sits on the bench. Just enough so it doesn't move around.
I Put masking tape over sockets and then press it onto the Bleu tack
caps I hold in place with tape and use third hands to keep the board off the bench. I solder one leg, reposition the caps and solder the other leg. If i care about straight caps. Otherwise both legs at once
I do a mild bend. Not fully peened over that it’s hard to remove if necessary (although for resistors that cost like $0.01/ea, I’ll snip first then responder- why risk a board for something that cheap), but not just dropped in as well.
I bend just enough that they don’t fall out AND are making good physical contact with the pad
Coach_McGuirk
Member
I feel like this is hard to achieve. A slight bend will keep the component from falling out, but the component will still fall down at least a few mm. The only way, in my experience, to prevent that is to bend the leads quite a bit, and then the components become more difficult to remove if needed.
giovanni
Well-known member
I usually pull the leads and bend a bit (15-20 degrees?) until I’m confident the component won’t fall out.
finebyfine
Well-known member
Man this one sent me down a fun rabbit hole. Based on this thread I did buy some orange masking tape but "PCB assembly jig" or "pcb assembly frame" are definitely the better search terms than "pcb holder." John Collier DIY'd one here for ~$100 in parts. A lot documented there is more work than I'm willing to do (and the type of work that I do not do well). 'm on the fence about snagging one up for $160 on ebay
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Aentons
Well-known member
I don't remove components alot but when I do I heat it up and bend it straight. Seems like much less work to me.
chris.knudson
Well-known member
That just looks like way too many opportunities for solder bridges for me. I just stick them all in, tape them all down, and solder away, timing the legs along the way.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
That's pretty cool Aentons.
Not sure that would work for me and the way I attempt to complete builds, but it's cool to see something different than the median-norm.
Not sure that would work for me and the way I attempt to complete builds, but it's cool to see something different than the median-norm.
RetiredUnit1
Well-known member
I accidentally left a roll of this outside and it rained. When I looked at it all the gel had oozed out of the tape and dripped all over the place. One of those "ah crap" moments......
