DC jack question

radam84

Member
So I almost ordered these jacks (pictured) and luckily realised that we use center negative (Im new). However I also noticed that these have 3 legs, does anyone know if I can use these or do the metal threads interfere with my hopes? I did read something about one of those legs being for switching purposes, but looking at the picture it looks like maybe something could be jammed in there to insulate the threads from the center pin, any thoughts on that approach?

Untitled.png
 
So I almost ordered these jacks (pictured) and luckily realised that we use center negative (Im new). However I also noticed that these have 3 legs, does anyone know if I can use these or do the metal threads interfere with my hopes? I did read something about one of those legs being for switching purposes, but looking at the picture it looks like maybe something could be jammed in there to insulate the threads from the center pin, any thoughts on that approach?

View attachment 74616
To make them work you’d be stuck with 3 options: 1- set it up as center positive and then flip the polarity on your power supply patch cables (pain in the ass!)
2- use insulated shoulder washers and an oversized hole to keep the metal using away from the enclosure (look up how the Cliff style jacks on a Marshall plexi work)
3- just order the right jacks in the first place
 
To make them work you’d be stuck with 3 options: 1- set it up as center positive and then flip the polarity on your power supply patch cables (pain in the ass!)
2- use insulated shoulder washers and an oversized hole to keep the metal using away from the enclosure (look up how the Cliff style jacks on a Marshall plexi work)
3- just order the right jacks in the first place
Yea I ended up finding these(pictured) and I dont like how they will end up sticking out a bunch but they'll work, or I also figured I could use 2pin jst's with the dc jacks that are more flush and have a slightly offset hole. Im going to look into option 2 that you mentioned as well because I like that idea, so thanks for giving me a search term.
1715191539304.png

Or If I feel brave enough I may try these square ones. 1715191633576.png
I think the square ones would ultimately be the cheapest and solve most issues I have with the other options out there. They're quite flush, clean looking, dont need to be cut or desoldered from the circuit if ever needed, etc. I just dont know if im accurate enough to make a proper square space for them to fit into and also its a considerable amount more work, oh and also filing down the backplate ridge to accommodate the inside part of the jack.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nic
Yea I ended up finding these(pictured) and I dont like how they will end up sticking out a bunch but they'll work, or I also figured I could use 2pin jst's with the dc jacks that are more flush and have a slightly offset hole. Im going to look into option 2 that you mentioned as well because I like that idea, so thanks for giving me a search term.
View attachment 74748

Or If I feel brave enough I may try these square ones.View attachment 74749
I think the square ones would ultimately be the cheapest and solve most issues I have with the other options out there. They're quite flush, clean looking, dont need to be cut or desoldered from the circuit if ever needed, etc. I just dont know if im accurate enough to make a proper square space for them to fit into and also its a considerable amount more work, oh and also filing down the backplate ridge to accommodate the inside part of the jack.
For the “outie” Jack, either buy another nut to put on the inside or shim with washers to make it flush with the nut on the outside.
 
Or If I feel brave enough I may try these square ones.View attachment 74749
I've used those lately, check my last build reports (my 3 big muffs)
I bought 10 on aliexpress, they took forever to arrive, but the quality was correct.
I drill a hole because the top is curved, then cut from the edge to the hole by hand with a saw. Then I use a file to finish the fit.
On 2 of my builds, I had to file the inside of the enclosure so the wall would fit in the slot. I tried widening the slot without much success. I had one snap becaise the wall was still too thick. But when fitted it looks great.
That's so thight I need pliers to get it out of there.
 
I've used those lately, check my last build reports (my 3 big muffs)
I bought 10 on aliexpress, they took forever to arrive, but the quality was correct.
I drill a hole because the top is curved, then cut from the edge to the hole by hand with a saw. Then I use a file to finish the fit.
On 2 of my builds, I had to file the inside of the enclosure so the wall would fit in the slot. I tried widening the slot without much success. I had one snap becaise the wall was still too thick. But when fitted it looks great.
That's so thight I need pliers to get it out of there.
Ok yea this was pretty much going to be my approach as well, so its good to hear someone has had success with that method, thans eh.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nic
I used to always use those (the ones shown in the first post), and still do on occasion. I made little stepped insulating washers for them; I used to do this with laser cutting little washers from 1/32 acrylic and bonding them together so that there was a lip that held the Jack centered in the oversized holes. Now I print them. Happy to forward a file.
 
I used to always use those (the ones shown in the first post), and still do on occasion. I made little stepped insulating washers for them; I used to do this with laser cutting little washers from 1/32 acrylic and bonding them together so that there was a lip that held the Jack centered in the oversized holes. Now I print them. Happy to forward a file.
If I had a printer Id be qll over that lol. Good idea for sure.
 
For the “outie” Jack, either buy another nut to put on the inside or shim with washers to make it flush with the nut on the outside.
thought I replied to this already but guess I didnt, yea I figure if I do buy those type I probably would try to flush them up with washers or something, thanks for the idea eh.
 
Here's something to consider, radam84:

While the "outies" aren't as good-looking from the outside as an "innie" when viewing the exterior of a finished pedal...

1) Once on the pedalboard and plugging leads into the signal-path top-jacks and power hooked up — once everything's plugged in, IMO the outie-aesthetic is completely mitigated.
2) Can't completely remove an "innie"-based build from its enclosure for trouble-shooting/repairs/whatever without desoldering the jack (unless using screw-terminals or other quick-disconnect method).
3) I need all the space I can get on the INSIDE of a build, as I like to include extra toggles/pots/mods and "innies" are simply too intrusive and make the gutshot look fugly.
 
Here's something to consider, radam84:

While the "outies" aren't as good-looking from the outside as an "innie" when viewing the exterior of a finished pedal...

1) Once on the pedalboard and plugging leads into the signal-path top-jacks and power hooked up — once everything's plugged in, IMO the outie-aesthetic is completely mitigated.
2) Can't completely remove an "innie"-based build from its enclosure for trouble-shooting/repairs/whatever without desoldering the jack (unless using screw-terminals or other quick-disconnect method).
3) I need all the space I can get on the INSIDE of a build, as I like to include extra toggles/pots/mods and "innies" are simply too intrusive and make the gutshot look fugly.
Yea I think Im most likely going to go for the square type plug. I like how they look on the outside of the enclosure and they can be removed easily if need be. I think the effort it'll take to make a couple small cuts and do some filing will be well worth it in the end.
 
and they can be removed easily if need be.
I use the innie jacks from tayda. Cheap, reliable, and I think they look nicer than the outies.

Desoldering dc jacks is not my favorite activity, but it’s not actually that hard. Heat up the joint, tug on the wire. Clearing the terminals for re-use might take a minute, but for 13 cents you can also just use a new one. Definitely less effort than filing a square hole on every enclosure.



Sometimes
 
I use the innie jacks from tayda. Cheap, reliable, and I think they look nicer than the outies.

Desoldering dc jacks is not my favorite activity, but it’s not actually that hard. Heat up the joint, tug on the wire. Clearing the terminals for re-use might take a minute, but for 13 cents you can also just use a new one. Definitely less effort than filing a square hole on every enclosure.



Sometimes
yea the time is certainly a factor, but I doubt Ill be making bunches at a time anytime soon lol. Im still in the gathering info and stock phase of this hobby lol.
 
Back
Top Bottom