I do side-mounted jacks on all my builds, and with the PedalPCB boards, the PCB lands up being quite far back (towards the stomp switch.) The small footprint of the Lumberg jacks helps a lot in allowing everything to fit. Not a problem if using top-mounted jacks.Out of these three, I like the Lumberg the best and would use them in anything I would sell or use extensively, but the Enclosed Jacks are the cheapest and are decent enough I think. The metal is a much lighter gauge than the other two open ones.
I've definitely perfected borking...Recently I borked my top drilling on a build and had to try all styles of jacks I had to try and get one that fit. The open metal frame ones just barely made it and saved the day. So it paid to have the extras around that time.
I started with open jacks. No issues with except that some of them resist taking solder.
I moved to lumbergs for a while, but then concluded that they weren't worth the premium (a couple of times they've had an issue where the jack ended up bending the connector out of the way instead of fitting into it--they also look like they're about to break when under tension of holding the jack, and even though I haven't had one break it looks sketchy).
Now I've been using those enclosed jacks, which are the cheapest, and haven't had any issues whatsoever.
Same. I used to scuff sand them a bit, and that also helps, but I don't even bother any more since I got to the "acceptance" phase of allowing the iron to linger.FYI, I finally determined that the "resist taking solder" thing is because they are basically huge heat sinks. I just leave the iron on for a count of 5 or six before apply the solder, Flows on great.
Taking gain stacking to a whole new level…I have all my pedals hardwired together, no jacks at all. This way I am forced to commit to a pedalboard…
If you’re having trouble soldering to jacks, your iron is hot enough or powerful enough.