Missing Build Docs / Schematics
- Thread starter Robert
- Start date
Not sure where to post, but the dung beetle build doc is not updated to the new revision. A couple of resistor/capacitor values need updates
Elktronics
Active member
Would love to get the drill template for the dual effects loop switch.
thanks
thanks
finebyfine
Well-known member
Does the Simple Latching Relay Bypass use the same TQ2-L-5V relay as the intelligent version?
Robert
Reverse Engineer
Yep, it does.
+1, would love to get a parts list if nothing else
Robert
Reverse Engineer
PedalPCB VIIB Parts List
I'll get the complete build doc posted ASAP, still working through the backlog of orders from the weekend. In the meantime, here's the parts list for the VIIB: https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/VIIB-BOM.pdf
forum.pedalpcb.com
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Hoping the LOFINATOR makes it back in stock for my next round of purchases...
Robert
Reverse Engineer
I'll take care of it.
finebyfine
Well-known member
Few questions on the Electrovibe:
- What are the two pads extra underneath the trimpots? Are these for an option of dropping in 1/4w resistors instead of trimpots?
- What is the top to-92 transistor (dead center, below the 1n5817)?
- What are the two pads extra underneath the trimpots? Are these for an option of dropping in 1/4w resistors instead of trimpots?
- What is the top to-92 transistor (dead center, below the 1n5817)?
JamieJ
Well-known member
I’ve seen elsewhere that the transistor below the 1n5817 is the voltage regulator - L78L12.
I also had a question about the pads on the back of the IC is that so we can use a MAX1044/ICL7660 op amp instead of the LT1054?
I have another dumb question… is the 7371 bulb polarised?? I can’t see any info on a few data sheets I have seen.
finebyfine
Well-known member
Figured it was a voltage regulator, thanks! Makes sense that it's 12v with the bulb being 12v
Not sure about the ICL7660 but yes if you bridge that connection you can use a 1044 instead. There's a few other pedalpcb builds that have that same setup. Really handy way to do it to not need a full on jumper wire
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Robert
Reverse Engineer
The extra pads below the trimpots are to accommodate an RM-065 type trim pot. Tayda didn't have a 250K trimpot in the 3362P style, and rather than have to bend the leads all wonky like I did, I just added an extra set of pads so they'd be a direct fit. Of course you could just order a 3362P from Mouser or some other dealer, but adding extra pads was a free and simple fix.
The TO-92 at the top is indeed for a voltage regulator (L78L12). The bulb actually isn't powered by the 12V supply. I know some of the other DIY builds tend to drive the lamp from the 12V supply and the opamps from the higher 18V supply, but if you take a look at the original Univibe schematics the supply for the lamp comes straight off the power transformer. The opamps are powered by the lower (and filtered) B+ derived after the two 470R resistors.
That's correct, the solder jumpers on the back are for 1044 / 7660 type charge pumps.
The 7371 is a incandescent filament bulb, no polarity.
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