Some way to rig up 12v AC?

I want to know how circuits use bipolar DC power, and for what reason. I've got a good handle on how AC is turned into DC

Op amp circuits very often use dual rail supply (+V/-V). The signal and op amp inputs are biased around 0V, which is the mid point between +V and -V. In a nutshell.

To add to that, split rail supplies essentially give you three common supplies (i.e., +, -, and GND at the midpoint) as opposed to two with single supplies. GND is a reference point and isn’t an absolute of 0V. When we take a single supply and create Vref via a voltage divider, we’re creating that third supply and using that like the ‘GND’ of split rail designs.

There’s also considerations with digital logic and muxes where a split rail supply may be a better choice due to the voltage logic.
 
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You could use a 9v DC supply with a voltage inverter to get +/-9 then linearly regulating both down and feeding that past the rectifier, but since most AC pedals are pretty old I can't say I would want to do this without first measuring the rectified voltages off a known 12VAC supply, especially if it contains any BBDs or digital components that may be long out of production.
There’s usually a bunch of laptop power supplies at thrift stores for a few bucks.
IME those are overwhelmingly AC->DC, with voltages that can easily hit 16-20V. Great way to power cheap TPA3118 power amp modules though.
 
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I probably should have mentioned this isn't a guitar effects pedal. It's a half rack compressor/EQ meant for line level.
 
The variac idea will work, just make sure you measure the output and don't bump the dial once it's set.

Also keep in mind, the "cheaper" variacs are not isolated from the mains input.

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Speaking of variacs, I really regret selling my Sencore PR57. That was a nice variac... It would measure the input voltage, output voltage, current, and leakage.
 
I think we may have lost track of what the OP was asking for: a way to power his box without having to buy a new AC wall wart :)
He's got to have a 12V transformer somewhere around the house though, if it's anything like my house.
 
I think we may have lost track of what the OP was asking for: a way to power his box without having to buy a new AC wall wart :)
He's got to have a 12V transformer somewhere around the house though, if it's anything like my house.
We keep every PSU we've stumbled across. Others keep every newspaper ever printed...
I think if OP doesn't have one, they should just ask said friend to supply the PSU or order a new one.
But hey, at least it's not an old piece of Alesis gear that uses a 16vacct supply! Talk about unicorns!
 
But hey, at least it's not an old piece of Alesis gear that uses a 16vacct supply! Talk about unicorns!
Speaking of, the first AC-powered box I saw was an Alesis 3630 compressor. 9VAC input. I doubt it even uses voltage regulators inside at this input voltage.
 
For reference, the AC-powered effect very likely has something like this inside. Or maybe even just D1-D2-C1-C2 if it's really cheap.

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Something close to this. Luckily I had enough time to pop a couple screws off and open the chassis. There are at least 3 regulators, two with heat fins. But it looks like a few of the caps at the power input blew their load. I was in a rush so I didn't get great pics. Maybe I'll get back to it later

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For reference, this is the unit:
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If you're looking to generate AC from a DC supply you're going to need an inverter, which is not a trivial thing to design and build. There unfortunately isn't a simple way to "reverse-rectify" DC back into AC. You would be better off modding the device to take a DC input (or paying $20 or so for an AC power supply).

EDIT: I found the one I bought recently, I purchased a 12VAC pedal from overseas and needed a US plug adapter for it. $15 and didn't need to modify anything internally.

 
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Really what you need is this...
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regardless of whether you get it through a variac or just a simple transformer. If you know what you are doing, you might be able to use the transformer from a laptop power supply (which should be 18 or 19 V) and remove the bridge rectifier and then use a voltage regulator to regulate the output to 12V.
 
Looks like you can get a replacement Joemeek power supply for $25.

 
Something close to this. Luckily I had enough time to pop a couple screws off and open the chassis. There are at least 3 regulators, two with heat fins. But it looks like a few of the caps at the power input blew their load. I was in a rush so I didn't get great pics. Maybe I'll get back to it later

View attachment 65485View attachment 65486

For reference, this is the unit:
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Nothing seems obviously wrong with it with the exception of the three big leaky caps -- probably want to replace all the electrolytics or at least the bigger ones -- as an obvious place to start.
 
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