The Gent - No Effect

[dontstaylong]

Hey all. Third build from the site, and naturally running into more issues. I am pretty sure I’ve messed up the wiring here, but I’m not sure where.

When it’s plugged in, I’m getting clean signal through it, but nothing once the switch is pressed. Is my (ugly, hacky) workaround with the 3pdt breakout board the issue?

 

[jimilee]

Your wiring looks good. Are you getting voltage across the 5817 diode?

 

[carlinb17]

Your power is connected to the wrong lug, it needs to be the outside one leaving the middle empty. Also splicing wires is a recipe for issues. Always run one continuous wire.

Once you fix the power jack try it again and see if your led comes on ( mark sure it’s not grounding against something when you do power it.

 

[dontstaylong]

Your wiring looks good. Are you getting voltage across the 5817 diode?

I am a novice with all this stuff, including figuring out how to use a multimeter, but I’m getting 0v reading across all the 1B5817s I got from Tayda. Does that mean it’s a bad batch?

 

[jimilee]

I am a novice with all this stuff, including figuring out how to use a multimeter, but I’m getting 0v reading across all the 1B5817s I got from Tayda. Does that mean it’s a bad batch?

Likely means there’s so thing wrong with your power supply, dc jack or wiring. Your multimeter should be set to DC voltage anything at or above 9v. Even with a bad batch of diodes, you’d have voltage on the anode side:

 

[dontstaylong]

Changed out the DC jack with a different one, and it’s blowing LEDs when I power it on. Still no effect signal either, with both pots completely open. It’s the same 9v power supply chain I use for all my other 9v pedals.

Other than the spliced wires, what am I doing wrong?

I was hoping to build 3 of these but even getting one working is proving difficult!

 

[jimilee]

A CLR on one side of the LED will fix that issue. I usually use 4k7. Next step is an audio probe. Not hard to make at all.

 

[swelchy]

Your DC jack looks wired backward to me

 

[Feral Feline]

DC Jack was addressed by CarlinB in post #3 and OPer has changed it in post #6 — it looks correct.

Some of the solder joints look like they could be reflowed.

+1 To Jimilee's Audio Probe suggestion, and Carlin's suggestion to have one continuous wire from jacks to 3PDT.


I'll suggest socketing the transistor in future; I've never had a problem with just socketing transistors, but other people have so if you're worried about socketing then once you establish a transistor works you can tack-solder one of the legs to the socket so it won't fall out.

 

[carlinb17]

Another Note, are you plugging your input and output into the correct jacks? I've found myself puzzled to why a circuit doesn't work only to realize that with it out of the box I plugged in the output and input backwards. You will still get bypass, but certainly no sound when you fire it up.

 

[dontstaylong]

Another Note, are you plugging your input and output into the correct jacks? I've found myself puzzled to why a circuit doesn't work only to realize that with it out of the box I plugged in the output and input backwards. You will still get bypass, but certainly no sound when you fire it up.

This just about made me have a heart attack, but unfortunately, nah still doesn't work right.

Reflowed everything today and still no dice. Working on the second build of the group to just see if it's a fluke.

I'll start working on an audio probe as well, sounds like a good idea in general.

Re: the 3PDT switch wiring - I realize I goofed up and got the basic breakout board, even though the PCB only has through holes for 4 wires instead of 6. Is that likely the cause, or have I guessed at the right workaround for wiring?

 

[carlinb17]

That’s how to wire the basic breakout board, another thought it checking your continuity on your footswitch.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

R100 looks like 4.7R, should be 4.7K.
R5 looks like 3.3R, should be 3.3K.
Hard to tell due to the lighting, but R2 looks like 4.7K, should be 470K.

What voltages do you get on D100-K, Q1-E, Q1-B and Q1-c?

 

[carlinb17]

R100 looks like 4.7R, should be 4.7K.
R5 looks like 3.3R, should be 3.3K.
Hard to tell due to the lighting, but R2 looks like 4.7K, should be 470K.

What voltages do you get on D100-K, Q1-E, Q1-B and Q1-c?

If r100 is 4.7r that would explain the blow out of the led.

 

[music6000]

Looks like your living up to your name!???
We can't help if you don't reply!

 

[dontstaylong]

Looks like your living up to your name!???
We can't help if you don't reply!

Not wrong! Been a hectic minute, had to find time to implement these fixes - you all are life savers.

Just swapped those resistors and oh hell, this thing sounds mighty. You’re all great. Thanks! Will post completed build photo/audio soon.