How do you know when it's time to replace your tip?

[chris.knudson]

So, as someone who is relatively new to soldiering electronics, how do I know when I need to replace my iron's tip? I've only been soldering for about 7 or 8 months, but I have already gone through 4 or 5 spools of solder, and sometimes I feel like the solder is "sticky" -- in other words it pulls to a point away from the joint as I remove the iron. Does this mean that my tip might need to be replaced, or is this a sign of the iron not getting hot enough? I'm just too new to this to understand what is happening and how to diagnose it. Any input from those of you who have been at this for a while is greatly appreciated.

 

[jhaneyzz]

Hmmmm...

I wouldn't call my self an expert on the subject, but I've built over a hundred pedals and I've never really felt that the tip NEEDED replacing. I've bought new irons and tried different tip shapes but I've never worn one out.

I would suspect either iron temperature being too low, tip not being clean, or less than ideal soldering technique.

Can you take a nice, well lit, in focus shot of your soldering work so we can make sure we are understand you're concern.

Include a shot of your iron and tip as well.

Also, what kind of iron and solder are you using?

 

[chris.knudson]

Hmmmm...

I wouldn't call my self an expert on the subject, but I've built over a hundred pedals and I've never really felt that the tip NEEDED replacing. I've bought new irons and tried different tip shapes but I've never worn one out.

I would suspect either iron temperature being too low, tip not being clean, or less than ideal soldering technique.

Can you take a nice, well lit, in focus shot of your soldering work so we can make sure we are understand you're concern.

Include a shot of your iron and tip as well.

Also, what kind of iron and solder are you using?

I'm using a Yihua 853D with 60/40 tin/lead rosin core solder. I'm not sure i have a good example of what I am talking about since I have reflowed all of the suspect soldier work I was talking about, but I'll be sure to capture some images when the problem resurfaces.

 

[Barry]

What size rolls of solder are you buying? I've been using the same 1 lb roll for at least 10 years and over a hundred pedals? I'm just about to start my second roll.

 

[jessenator]

Corect temps are critical and the first thing to check. 350-360 C is where I keep mine, and it hasn't failed me. The tip on the other hand… I have the opposite problem from you, Chris, in that solder will just not stick consistently: Currently only half of my go-to tip works, so I have to install/rotate it carefully. Tip tinning paste will recondition the tip, possibly solving 'adhesion' (that's not the right term, but I can't think of it off hand).

My Hakko tips came pre-tinned, so I imagine it's just wearing off (that or my misuse and solder-wicking has caught up with me). Personally, I don't think I'll trust that pre-tinning and will just do it myself—like curing cast iron: never trust a 'pre-cured' pan.

I also need to get a brass coil. Thought I could get away with stainless, but that's likely bad for the tip, too.


edit: I got on a tangent… I'd try re-tinning before replacing a tip (esp if you're an dingdong like me and bought an iron with $15+ tips)

 

[RetiredUnit1]

When it looks more like a fish hook than a soldering tip, it's really time.... And I'm not kidding! I've only made a few pedals, but a lot of tube amps. Maybe not the same when soldering tiny connections......

I'm on my seventh POUND of solder in the past 20 years.

 

[drgonzo1969]

ya i have replaced my tip twice. The first one did the fish hook thing @RetiredUnit1 was talking about and the second one started to have a layer of metal seperate from the main part of the tip.

 

[RetiredUnit1]

ya i have replaced my tip twice. The first one did the fish hook thing @RetiredUnit1 was talking about and the second one started to have a layer of metal seperate from the main part of the tip.

I think I'm on my fifth or sixth tip.....

 

[Nostradoomus]

I’ve had my Hakko for a few years and am still on the original tip. Maintenance is key. I wore one tip out on my last soldering iron but I just sanded it down a bit and it took solder just fine after that.

 

[Barry]

I don't think I've ever worn a tip out, I have switched types a couple of times, pencil tip to chisel and back to pencil. On my old Weller 25 I did have to replace the collar that secures the tip once.

 

[Giorfida]

Depends on iron as well. On the budget priced irons, many.
My granddads old Weller gun type (great for soldering grounds to chassis) - many, but not normal wear, they are just so soft and easy to bend
The Weller W60P temperature controlled iron I bought like 25 years ago and used it commercially when I had my amp business, as well as the last 10-15 years as a hobbyist? It looks like the day I bought it.

Just got a Halko this year, so I’ll be curious as to how fast it burns them up

 

[cdwillis]

Before I got my Weller and Hakko, I had cheapo Walmart 20w irons. The tips on them just seemed to erode quickly. I tried to sand them a little to give them the chisel tip edge back. It just wasn't worth the time or effort. I've had my Hakko for two or three years now and the tip basically looks brand new.

 

[jessenator]

(that or my misuse and solder-wicking has caught up with me)

welp, according to an SRA blog post, I think I'm doing a lot of these

There are many things you can do to make sure that your tip keeps a healthy layer of tin. Here are some of the causes of de-tinning that you want to avoid.

• Failure to keep the working end of the tip covered with solder during idling periods.
  
  
• Operating at high temperatures, which speeds oxidation. Maintain the temperature of 608°F (320°C), or less, whenever possible.
  
  
• Use of very small solder wire. Its small diameter carries inadequate flux to keep the tip.
  
  
• Lack of flux in the soldering operation.
  
  
• Use of no clean fluxes and low-residue fluxes.
  
  
• Repair and touch-up, and the use of wick.
  
  
• Wiping of tips on dry sponges, man-made sponges, rags, paper towels, or metal wool in lieu of a wet cellulose sponge.

wait, don't we all kind of do most of that? or is it just me?

 

[chris.knudson]

welp, according to an SRA blog post, I think I'm doing a lot of these

wait, don't we all kind of do most of that? or is it just me?

Yes, I've done most of those as well, but this brings up another question - what temperature do you solder at? I've always soldered at 680°F (360°C), but this article says to keep you iron at 608°F (320°C), but I've seen a lot of posts on this forum where people are soldering at 700°F or higher. So what temp do you all recommend?

 

[chris.knudson]

What size rolls of solder are you buying? I've been using the same 1 lb roll for at least 10 years and over a hundred pedals? I'm just about to start my second roll.

50g, but I just bought my first 1lb. spool because I start getting anxious when I'm getting down to the end of a spool.

 

[Barry]

So, as someone who is relatively new to soldiering electronics, how do I know when I need to replace my iron's tip? I've only been soldering for about 7 or 8 months, but I have already gone through 4 or 5 spools of solder, and sometimes I feel like the solder is "sticky" -- in other words it pulls to a point away from the joint as I remove the iron. Does this mean that my tip might need to be replaced, or is this a sign of the iron not getting hot enough? I'm just too new to this to understand what is happening and how to diagnose it. Any input from those of you who have been at this for a while is greatly appreciated.

When the solder feels sticky you need to clean your tip

 

[chris.knudson]

When the solder feels sticky you need to clean your tip

Just found my little tin of tip cleaner -- it's all shiny and new looking again.

 

[Giorfida]

Yes, I've done most of those as well, but this brings up another question - what temperature do you solder at? I've always soldered at 680°F (360°C), but this article says to keep you iron at 608°F (320°C), but I've seen a lot of posts on this forum where people are soldering at 700°F or higher. So what temp do you all recommend?

I solder at 700°f, only because it’s what I’m used to after using my Weller W60P for 25ish years (fixed 700° temperature controlled), and kick up to 750 to burn through the tinning on new Switchcraft jacks, or soldering grounds on CTS pots

 

[jessenator]

350-360 C is where I keep mine, and it hasn't failed me.

Not quite 700 F, but close to. My rationale was always: higher temps, shorter contact time.

 

[RetiredUnit1]

I solder at 700°f, only because it’s what I’m used to after using my Weller W60P for 25ish years (fixed 700° temperature controlled), and kick up to 750 to burn through the tinning on new Switchcraft jacks, or soldering grounds on CTS pots

My buddy Bob was a audio/visual engineer with a masters degree for Paramount studios. On shoots he just played video games until something broke. Back at the farm he would repair boards/units that broke during shoots. All the engineers there used the same temp of 743f which is 395c, so that's what I use. Never a problem in 20 years!

Good ol' Bob got to eat at the catering trucks with William Shatner, and all the rest of the star trek actors and got to see the movies being filmed. Bob had a few too many prime rib sandwiches and had a widow maker heart attack and passed away in 2010. Bob didn't like going to the doctor, and a 15 minute operation to insert a stent would have saved his life.

If anyone here gets occasional chest pain and doesn't like doctors, do your family a favor and go have a checkup anyway!!! They make a small incision, insert a robotic catheter in your main artery, snake it down to the clog and the stent is released which uses spring action to push open a path through the block. They do the same thing now when repairing natural gas lines, sort of. Kinda....