Monarch

[uranium_jones]

I just stumbled on this thread looking for a clone of the EQD Monarch. (Really, I just want to build an Orange amp in a pedal.) What's the likelihood of this turning into a PCB? I have no idea what this "Vero" is. I'll go back to my corner now and suck on my lollipop.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

I have a friend who wants to buy one as soon as boards are available.
I just added it to the WISHLIST.

 

[Robert]

I shall make it happen.

 

[chongmagic]

I shall make it happen.

It is an awesome pedal when it is done right!

 

[Danbieranowski]

Looking forward to this one!

 

[Devoureddeth]

I have breadboarded all variations including my own and it makes a nice overdrive. Curious how that Model T power amp circuit would sound on this; I am not talking about the LM386 version, but the FET model. If only someone had a schematic haha.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

Are you talking about this one by Coda Effects?

 

[Devoureddeth]

No the EAE one, I have found a good power amp mimic but its benefits are limited on your and traditional Monarch. I have heard the EAE FET Model T uses a simpler circuit than the one posted.

 

[dmnCrawler]

I use VeroRoute to lay out my Vero boards. Board is 17 x 17. 14 cuts, 2 links.
1st pic is the assembly diagram. See schematic above for part values. C1 is MLCC. C11, C13, C18 are tantalum. C18 is aluminum. All other caps are film (I used silver-mica for C8, but film is also acceptable). If you plan on running this on 18V, make sure C18 is rated for 25V or higher. All resistors are metal film; I used carbon film for R20 and the LED resistors, but MF is ok too.

I was bored so I made a DIYLC layout.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

Nice! But...
1. Some cuts are not visible.
2. D1 anode lead needs to connect one row lower.
3. + markers on C11, C13 & C18 should be -.

Still checking...

 

[uranium_jones]

Is there a thread for learning about this Vero board stuff? Can someone point me to it or direct me where would be the best place to start one?

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

You might want to start here...

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/09/vero-layout-guide.html

 

[dmnCrawler]

Nice! But...
1. Some cuts are not visible.
2. D1 anode lead needs to connect one row lower.
3. + markers on C11, C13 & C18 should be -.

Still checking...

Updated: (The tantalum symbols have positive in the marked area for some reason.)

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

Looks good!

 

[uranium_jones]

Does the Juice stomp switch literally have only two wires connect to it? Would the bypass switch be wired as a standard breakout board?

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

The JUICE switch on mine has two pairs of wires. One pair as shown on the schematic and another pair to light up the Juice LED. You can use a standard breakout board on that switch and not use all of the terminals.

The main switch is wired as true bypass, so you can use a standard breakout board if you like.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

 

[cooder]

Awesome, that's very orange I might add...
Looking like a great successful prototype Boneyard board there. Yum.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

My first one was day-glow orange, but it seems Tayda doesn't sell those glowing colors anymore.

 

[Feral Feline]

Dahmneht... I want Dayglo Abortion Orange enclosures...

Here yesterday, gone today, guano tomorrow...