Bass Klon
- Thread starter Chuck D. Bones
- Start date
jimilee
Well-known member
Am I the only one that immediately thought that would be a cool tattoo?
Keep an eye out for a sale at Gollihur.
Here's the mag pup I'd like to try, Biesele:
Oh yeah, with my Underwood, I only use the bass side pup, the treble side is tucked into foam — I still get plenty of click from slap.
Still, I'd like to one day experiment with a clicky, so I got a B-Band pickup ages ago. Still have yet to install it. Some day...
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Just remember, in the academic community it's not called plagiarism, it's call research.
I conduct a LOT of research!
I conduct a LOT of research!
KR Sound
Well-known member
Chuck- I want to try my hand at designing another board and was going to make one based on your bass version with the gain controls split and maybe some other stuff. Is it as easy as following the schematic and simply replacing the dual with two? My hunch says yes, because that would make sense.
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Yes. Two suggestions:
Look at the VFE Merman (PPCB Sea Monk) schematic for an example of splitting the GAIN control and other cool mods.
Post your schematic here for review.
And a warning:
The only stage that should saturate is the Dirty amp that drives the clipping diodes (Sea Monk IC2.2). All of the other opamps should have their gains set so that they do not saturate under any conditions. If you change any of the gains or rail voltages, then you need to check this.
Look at the VFE Merman (PPCB Sea Monk) schematic for an example of splitting the GAIN control and other cool mods.
Post your schematic here for review.
And a warning:
The only stage that should saturate is the Dirty amp that drives the clipping diodes (Sea Monk IC2.2). All of the other opamps should have their gains set so that they do not saturate under any conditions. If you change any of the gains or rail voltages, then you need to check this.
You used Aluminum Electrolytic for the two 47uF caps — is that because 47uF tantalum caps are stupidly expensive, or you didn’t have 47uF tantalum on hand, or do you generally use Electrolytic for large values like 47uF, 100uF, and 220uF?
Thx!
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
The 47uF caps are in the power supply, so aluminum is fine. I have some 47uF tant, but I tend to save those for when they're in the audio path. I'll use 100uF aluminum in the audio path when it's called for, such as the Screw Driver.
andare
Well-known member
I see 47uF and 100uF in the power section. As a mere mortal and layman, should I just go for 47uF by default and only go up if I heard noise/oscillation?
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
So far no problems with Tayda tantalum. I did have trouble with some electronic Goldmine tantalums a few years back and they issued a refund.
Bigger caps won't necessarily cure a noise or instability problem. You really need to understand the root cause before you can fix a problem. Sometimes bigger caps will cause a regulator to go unstable.
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
I just visited Cordial Cable's website. Besides changing their URL, they have dropped the Pathways Magazine.
Locrian99
Well-known member
Gah i knew i shouldve saved that! @Chuck D. Bones do you have just a list of the changes?
Bio77
Well-known member
The list is in this post: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/bass-klon.24042/
I just used these for a Kliche Mini. The schematics/parts numbers matched up.
I just used these for a Kliche Mini. The schematics/parts numbers matched up.
