Testing the pot:
Remove it from the build.
Turn the pot all the way to one side, measure the total resistance between leg 1 & 2, then 3 & 2.
Turn the pot all the other way, measure again and it should match up with total resistance above (ex 100k pot should read 100k on your DMM).
Turn the pot half way, measure both sides (ex 100k pot will then measure 50k per side).
That effectively takes care of continuity testing your pot as well. Might seem excessive/redundant/whatever, maybe there are better ways to do it, but that's how I'd approach it.
What you've done differently:
You did...
...Nothing differently! I was looking at the power and grounding cockeyed, and thought you'd done something different with the ground — but it wouldn't have mattered even if you'd done it how I thought!
Je m'excuse!
ICs and reflowing
If the ICs check out okay and you're still getting nothing, then start reflowing solder joints (without the ICs in the pedal). Maybe start with the power, grounds and then the IC sockets. Put known good ICs in and test again. Still no signal, then finish re-flowing all the joints.
Still no signal, then get out the audio-probe.
Signal in bypass with no signal while circuit engaged usually means there's a problem with the switching. Double check your connections — just 'cause you have continuity between two points doesn't mean the two are connected correctly and might need to be moved to the neighbouring connection point at one end... if you know what I mean. If not, I should try to get some sleep — a recurring condition.
Good luck!