Oh_Discordia!
Active member
Took my time, drilled everything properly….damn jacks have nowhere to live. I’m thinking the reverb module needs to live on the other side of the board. Yea?
Spirit Box - I put this in upside down didn’t I
- Thread starter Oh_Discordia!
- Start date
Took my time, drilled everything properly….damn jacks have nowhere to live. I’m thinking the reverb module needs to live on the other side of the board. Yea?
Paradox916
Well-known member
Yup, the brick goes on the other side of the board.
Oh_Discordia!
Active member
What’s the best way to approach this? I tried a (cheap) sucker and some solder wick. Just made myself frustrated.
slacjs
Member
I find flux makes a huge difference when using wick.
peccary
Well-known member
De-soldering can be tough and you just have to get a feel for it. If you have some strip board or anything else you can solder some leads to it and practice I think that'd be best.
I like a solder sucker and use the fancy "Engineer" branded one from Amazon. Lots of people like braid as well, but just find what works best for you. If you start to get frustrated just sit it down and walk away for a while.
flemming
Well-known member
If you just snipped the pins off as close to the board as possible do you think you'd have enough left to resolder from other side? I used a leaf style socket for mine and had to cut the pins down a bit on purpose. See:
forum.pedalpcb.com
It'll be far easier to remove the remnants of each pin one at a time than to try and get the whole thing out. You could also just tack some wire onto the pins like @jimilee suggested above if you end up a bit short.
Spirit Box w/ Mods
It seems like I was always one part short of finishing this one for months now. I did the fuzzdog mods changing R4 -> 18k, R8 -> 12k, and the Dwell pot to B25K . For me the dwell change is honestly probably useless, but there wasn't really a downside. One thing I did that might be helpful to...
forum.pedalpcb.com
It'll be far easier to remove the remnants of each pin one at a time than to try and get the whole thing out. You could also just tack some wire onto the pins like @jimilee suggested above if you end up a bit short.
Oh_Discordia!
Active member
after a 2nd try I've decided to snip/clean out the pads and resolder. there should be enough pin left even if I need to reshape them to fit through the holes.If you just snipped the pins off as close to the board as possible do you think you'd have enough left to resolder from other side? I used a leaf style socket for mine and had to cut the pins down a bit on purpose. See:
Spirit Box w/ Mods
It seems like I was always one part short of finishing this one for months now. I did the fuzzdog mods changing R4 -> 18k, R8 -> 12k, and the Dwell pot to B25K . For me the dwell change is honestly probably useless, but there wasn't really a downside. One thing I did that might be helpful to...
It'll be far easier to remove the remnants of each pin one at a time than to try and get the whole thing out. You could also just tack some wire onto the pins like @jimilee suggested above if you end up a bit short.
jimilee
Well-known member
Good luck and god speed. May the force be with you.
JamieJ
Well-known member
Get one of these:
They make desoldering so much easier.
They make desoldering so much easier.
Last edited:
Matmosphere
Well-known member
I always use a higher temp when I desolder, especially with solder wick.
Use a higher temp, be quick with the iron and take your time. This isn’t an in and out in five minute job.
If you’ve got a cheap solder pump don’t bother with it. The ss-02 works really well because of the silicon tip having a little flexibility to it. Hard tipped ones are not easy to use, especially where there are other components nearby that can get in the way.
There are good tips above about using wick, flux helps, adding a little solder does sometimes as well. Remember to tin your iron every time you use the wick, cause the wick will suck your tip dry as well and it needs to be tinned to transfer heat to the pad.
Let the board and pads cool for a little bit between each pad. It might take a couple tries for each, letting things cool between tries will actually make it easier.
As pointed out by Jimi, you can always run wire if you need to, but hopefully it doesn’t come to that.
Use a higher temp, be quick with the iron and take your time. This isn’t an in and out in five minute job.
If you’ve got a cheap solder pump don’t bother with it. The ss-02 works really well because of the silicon tip having a little flexibility to it. Hard tipped ones are not easy to use, especially where there are other components nearby that can get in the way.
There are good tips above about using wick, flux helps, adding a little solder does sometimes as well. Remember to tin your iron every time you use the wick, cause the wick will suck your tip dry as well and it needs to be tinned to transfer heat to the pad.
Let the board and pads cool for a little bit between each pad. It might take a couple tries for each, letting things cool between tries will actually make it easier.
As pointed out by Jimi, you can always run wire if you need to, but hopefully it doesn’t come to that.
Matmosphere
Well-known member
Also, you could leave it like that and just get a 1590bb and chalk it up to learning.
Other than the jacks not fitting it should work like that. The pins are all still connected in the correct order.
Other than the jacks not fitting it should work like that. The pins are all still connected in the correct order.
pcb rookie
Active member
I've been using the Engineer solder sucker as well for the past few month. There is no going back. The flexible tip and the amount of suction makes it one of the most useful tool in my box ...
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