Guitar Build Wood Screw Disaster... Help?

Fingolfen

Well-known member
So I've been trying to build a guitar, and the project has pretty much been cursed from the outset. I got it to the point to where I was trying to install the Hipshot bridge. carefully drilled out the holes for the wood screws using the recommended bit... then one of the b****es twists off and breaks within about 3mm of being set. So now I've got a wood screw stuck in the guitar. I've tried several things to get it out - there's no head, so I haven't been able to use one of those reverse thread gizmos. There are some small screw removers, but they're too fragile to get a stainless screw out of maple + mahogany. I'm at my wits end on this thing and sadly have a ton of cash invested in it including the finish (which the idiot effed up requiring a re-fret) and the aforementioned re-fret...

Thoughts????
 
So I've been trying to build a guitar, and the project has pretty much been cursed from the outset. I got it to the point to where I was trying to install the Hipshot bridge. carefully drilled out the holes for the wood screws using the recommended bit... then one of the b****es twists off and breaks within about 3mm of being set. So now I've got a wood screw stuck in the guitar. I've tried several things to get it out - there's no head, so I haven't been able to use one of those reverse thread gizmos. There are some small screw removers, but they're too fragile to get a stainless screw out of maple + mahogany. I'm at my wits end on this thing and sadly have a ton of cash invested in it including the finish (which the idiot effed up requiring a re-fret) and the aforementioned re-fret...

Thoughts????
Can you snap a pic? How far down did it break off?
 
I tried filing a slot in it sadly that didn't work, it just snapped again... picture of the disaster coming soon...

Edit: Picture...

Broken Screw.jpg
 
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I've thought about one of the screw rescue kits, but they're really spendy... I haven't been able to get a vice on it yet... I may try my channel lock....

Otherwise, yeah, I'm going to have to drill and plug... unfortunately I don't have a lot of room for error as the strings are through body... :(
 
This is a crazy idea, but I have used something similar on a stuck mouthpiece on my son’s trumpet, get some dry ice or one of those liquid nitrogen wart remover cans and get it on that screw so that it cools and contracts both the screw, and the wood around it, then try and get a grip with the channel locks.
 
I've thought about one of the screw rescue kits, but they're really spendy... I haven't been able to get a vice on it yet... I may try my channel lock....

Otherwise, yeah, I'm going to have to drill and plug... unfortunately I don't have a lot of room for error as the strings are through body... :(
Ugh. Sorry, man.
 
I thought about going thermal, but I'm afraid if I go too cold it will crack the finish of the guitar...
If you get the channel locks on you could place the dry ice on those instead of directly on the wood, that way the cold is transferred to the screw mostly
 
This is under the bridge correct?

Here's what I would do (and have done). Use a razor blade and carefully excavate a little dish around the screw until you can get a set of needle nose or forceps or vise grips on it. The damage will be covered by the bridge.
 
Also a good reason to use hand tools for parts installs on guitars. Even with the lowest torque settings on a screw gun it can fatigue the metal in the screw.

My Sea Foam green Tele had two pickguard screws break off. Total pain in the arse. It's ugly under the pickguard with my digging it out but you can't see it.
 
Also a good reason to use hand tools for parts installs on guitars. Even with the lowest torque settings on a screw gun it can fatigue the metal in the screw.

My Sea Foam green Tele had two pickguard screws break off. Total pain in the arse. It's ugly under the pickguard with my digging it out but you can't see it.

Yeah... ummm... I was using hand tools...

On those screw extractors - I saw them, but they have terrible reviews... and this is maple on mahogany so I doubt they'd do anything other than continue to make a mess of it... I may try one though as they're cheap(ish).
 
Yeah... ummm... I was using hand tools...

On those screw extractors - I saw them, but they have terrible reviews... and this is maple on mahogany so I doubt they'd do anything other than continue to make a mess of it... I may try one though as they're cheap(ish).

Yeah, they don't have a lot of life in them, but they do work at least once 😅. They will work on harder woods, but they dull quickly, and can break easily

Another tip - before installing the screws, hit em with a bar of soap or some sorta wax for lubrication (after finishing)
 
Another tip - before installing the screws, hit em with a bar of soap or some sorta wax for lubrication (after finishing)
Quoted for truth, very important when putting screws in hard wood, makes them go in much more smoothly, much less likely to bind and snap. Especially since most screws used on guitar hardware is not hardened steel.

Also always make sure your pilot hole is sufficient, hard wood will crack easier than soft wood if you try to drive a screw into too small a pilot hole. I’ve seen some horror shows on headstock tuner installs.
 
Candlewax works too, but soap is usually readily available and works ridiculously well. Stainless can be a bugger to work with. You have to be careful bolting stainless into aluminium too; it can gall very quickly and lock up.

If screwing into hardwood sometimes the guide hole has to be bigger than you'd think. The only non-australian hardwood I have had any experience with it maple, and it can be demanding. But it doesn't split as wilfully as jarrah, the most common hardwood where I live. Jarrah is beautiful but can be a nightmare to work.
 
If you go the slight dig out them pliers route, these are designed with a jaw specifically for screw removal. They come in several sizes.


(that was a link to Engineer Neji Saurus pliers, at a large online retailer—you’ll have to search it out.)


The real problem is that most hardware has become crap. I generally don’t use the screws etc. that are included with most products. But having a shop with an entire hardware room (well, 1/2 of the shop kitchen…) made that fairly convenient. I also don’t buy hardware from little blister packs at hardware stores; again, it’s gotten pretty crappy. I tend to buy from a large online hardware source. If you live in a city with much industry, there will be stores that just sell hardware, but at this point, they often have very high line item minimums (so, you need to get like $75 worth of a single sized screw!!! But they will give me a few as samples. Just don’t overuse this technique.)
 
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